Ever wondered how a rough diamond becomes that lustrous gemstone in the jewelry store window? The answer lies in the process of cutting.
Diamond cutting, whether done entirely by hand or by machine, is much more than just a technical skill; it’s a bona fide art form. And how successfully it’s done plays a huge part in a diamond’s value.
Just ask Joseph Asscher, the legendary diamantaire entrusted with cutting the 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found1 (he’s also the man behind the famous Asscher cut).
After months of painstaking analysis, Asscher made the first cut by hand, using a single blow to cleave the huge gem in two. By the time Asscher had finished, there were nine major diamonds in total along with 97 smaller ones2, many of which now sit in the British Crown Jewels.
The diamond cutting process
The process of cutting a diamond is guided by a precise balance of science, artistry and technical expertise. There are two methods of cutting diamonds and both aim to optimize light ‘return’ (how well a diamond reflects light) along with symmetry and carat weight, though both go about it very differently.
Handcrafted diamond cutting is carried out by highly trained experts who use visual inspection and manual tools. Previously the only way of cutting diamonds, this method has been widely replaced by machine-led diamond cutting, which involves advanced lasers and scanning systems.
Hand-cut vs machine-cut diamonds
Diamond cutting by hand is a traditional, manual process, where a skilled cutter uses tools like cutting wheels, loupes, saws and hand-held faceting arms. Each and every decision is made in real time, guided by a sense of artistry and experience. Think of it as the haute couture of diamond crafting!
On the other hand, diamond cutting with machines uses high-tech equipment like lasers and scanners to perform automated tasks. Don’t be fooled into thinking computers do all the work, though – skilled operators and planners work alongside the machines, deciding on the cuts to be carried out and inspecting each diamond afterwards.
Both are used in today’s diamond manufacturing processes and sometimes even combined. Each has its benefits and they’re both highly respected.
Hand-cut diamonds
There’s something undeniably special about a handcrafted diamond (or ‘old cut’ diamond, as they’re sometimes known).
A vast amount of time and effort is dedicated to shaping it, using human intuition and personal touch. Cutters thoughtfully assess each rough diamond individually, taking into consideration its individual characteristics like inclusions, natural shape and potential carat yield in order to maximize beauty and brilliance. Using hand-held tools, they employ centuries-old diamond cutting techniques.
By doing it with their hands, cutters can easily react to what they learn about a diamond during the cutting process (like its crystal formation, unexpected inclusions etc.), which is why hand-cut diamonds are typically deemed to be of great quality and very precious.
It’s important to note that some hand-cut diamond experts will employ the help of computer technology (like 3D scanners) to help them decide what’s the best approach before making any incisions.
Machine-cut diamonds
Welcome to the age of algorithms and lasers! Machine-cut diamonds are shaped using advanced technology that brings speed, consistency and mind-blowing accuracy3 to the cutting table. Its efficiency has made machine-cutting extremely popular, not to mention the potential for waste minimization – cutting machines follow a pre-mapped model or formula that maximizes carat retention, ideal for cost and carat savings4.
Modern-day tools include 3D rough diamond scanners and computer-aided design (CAD) software used for initial planning, laser cutting systems and then automated polishing machines. It’s an excellent method for high-volume diamond manufacturing, where consistency and speed are a top priority for today’s major jewelry retailers.
But it’s not a compromise on quality. A well-executed machine-cut diamond can absolutely achieve top-quality grades in brilliance, polish and symmetry. Both methods of cutting also align with the Gemology Institute of America’s (GIA) 4Cs of diamonds grading system and meet strict industry standards for proportion and finish.
Ultimately, the success of a diamond depends more on the exact execution than the method, regardless of whether it’s an artisan at a wheel or a laser in a cutting lab.
Choosing between hand-cut or machine-cut diamonds
Knowing what’s involved, it’s easy to see why handcrafted diamonds carry an air of exclusivity and deep desirability. As well as heirloom pieces, their individuality makes them the go-to choice for people who really appreciate the expert craftsmanship behind a gemstone.
On the flip side, machine-cut diamonds typically deliver a more predictable result, which is why they’re most common in the commercial side of things, where precision, efficiency and scalability are paramount. They’re usually perfectly symmetrical, with more consistent angles and proportions compared to hand-cut varieties, which might feature small irregularities – although those often add a little extra personality to the diamond’s individual character!
How are lab-grown diamonds cut?
It’s a good question, especially with laboratory-grown diamonds (LGDs) becoming more common in the market5.
LGDs are almost always machine-cut. Due to the typical mass volume production, this helps ensure speed to handle the large batches and keeps costs low. However, there are rare cases, for a bespoke or high-end designer piece, when an LGD may be hand-cut to mimic an antique or vintage style.
If the sentimentality and personal backstory of a diamond appeals to you, it goes without saying that natural diamonds are your top choice. Truly individual, rare and unique compared to their laboratory-grown counterparts, natural diamonds tell a story that LGDs just can’t replicate. With the oldest diamonds dating at around 3.5 billion years old, they brim with history and geological resonance.
Both handcrafted and machine-cut natural diamonds can yield extraordinary results. And, ultimately, the choice comes down to what you personally value – the individuality of an artisan-shaped diamond reflecting the human touch that sculpted it, or the flawless precision of a diamond molded by cutting-edge tools. There’s no one-size-fits-all rule when it comes to choosing a diamond, it’s about finding whichever one speaks to you.
