There is nothing more classic than diamond-set jewelry. But a dynamic cut, an unexpected hue, a clever setting or a witty detail can all take diamonds from a traditional scope to something more modern, fresh and provocative. That was especially apparent at this year’s Couture Show, the annual gathering in Las Vegas that brings together top brands, designers, retailers, media and experts to highlight the best of designer-driven jewelry.
Here are five trends from the show that prove how versatility, glamour and the element of surprise keep diamond designs exciting…
1. Bezel set punctuations
In an homage to the bold shapes and full yellow gold that define jewelry from the 1980s, designers are turning to the punctuation mark of a bezel set diamond on the end of a linear design. That could be on the ends of open gold hoops by Tabayer, with the brand’s moi et toi style Twisted Sister bypass ring, or in the engineered look of the Jagat ring by CHRSTNS Paris, where nine diamonds are bezel set as the focal point of the ring, surrounded by pavéd diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.
Designer, goldsmith and bench jeweler Vanessa Fernández, meanwhile, set a ”moval”-shaped 3.23-carat diamond in one of her signature handmade settings (done in her own alloy of 18k gold), resembling a modified bezel with hidden prongs. Jade Ruzzo’s signet-style Cymbal ring featured a 3.53-carat fancy brown-yellow diamond with a dramatic bezel setting, amplified with rings of carved 18k gold cascading down the shank.
2. Old mine cuts
A renewed desire for authenticity has led designers to turn their attention to the unique qualities of old mine cut diamonds, an early version of the cushion cut that was popular in the 18th and 19th century, when artisans would cut diamonds by hand. The cut’s irregularities give it a distinctive type of sparkle, which designer Jenna Blake utilized in a pair of chandelier earrings that feature 28 old mine cut diamonds, done in a Georgian-inspired black rhodium plated gold setting accenting with smaller round brilliant diamonds in a graduated line.
Sara Beltran of Deszo by Sara Beltran also used old mine cuts in a black enamel bezel setting and strung on a leather cord to keep with the designer’s effortlessly cool aesthetic. Sylva Yepremian of Sylva et Cie had some of the largest old cuts at the show, setting a pair of old cushion cuts (nearly matched stones) totaling more than 16 carats on simple drops made of 18K gold wire, proving that the unique cut stands alone.
3. Baguette cuts
Baguettes and modified versions of the 14-facet, elongated rectangular-shaped cut continued to show up in the designs of modern-facing brands, making the most of the diamond’s linear look. Amsterdam-based designer Bibi van der Velden feted her brand’s 20-year anniversary with a new diamond-focused collection that uses the baguette cut as its central design element. The “Diamond Alligator” collection shows a linear setting of baguette diamonds as an abstract interpretation of an alligator (a special pair of longline earrings from the collection have already made their way onto Beyoncé’s lobes for her Cowboy Carter tour).
At Walters Faith, designer Mollie Good used rows of baguettes in various sizing, adding dimension to pavé diamond rows in a multi-line white gold bangle. Suzanne Kalan, meanwhile, continues to explore her unique “fireworks” setting in new style, while Loraida’s Blade ring contrasts fancy-shaped center diamonds against a double line of baguettes for a sharp look.
4. Brown Diamonds
A renewed interest in brown and champagne diamonds also echoes a growing desire for a perfectly imperfect look. Designer Hiba Husayni of Zahn-Z has expanded the variations of her popular Zaha ring (an homage to the late architect Zaha Hadid) to include champagne- and light-brown-hued diamonds, both as center stones and in the diamond pavé work of the stackable rings. As part of her 10-year anniversary collection, Cadar founder and creative director Michal Cadar created the one-of-a-kind Unconditional cocktail ring, with fancy brown, orange and yellow diamonds, all totaling nearly 10 carats.
5. Accents to whimsy
On their own with gold or platinum, diamonds give a classic, glamorous look. But with whimsical details such as etching in gold, mixed materials such as enamel, wood or semiprecious stones, and clever phrases, symbols or illustrations, diamonds take on the role of a dynamic accent, helping to elevate a whimsical piece to luxury status. At Circa 1700, founder and designer Susan Cohen outfitted her Spinnin’ the Dice Talisman with an antique diamond and modern brilliant cut diamonds in an organic pavé work that runs throughout the six sides of the dice, which display a different symbol or phrase on each one.
French designer Marie Lichtenberg also does a dice design; hers is done in ebony wood or coral, with bezel set diamonds as the number of dots. Harwell Godfrey’s latest creations, meanwhile, include everything from a realistic diamond pave key to a diamond spinner ring that resembles a mini disco ball, with metal work and a variation of diamond settings on each layer.
Words By Shannon Adducci, a New York-based fashion and jewelry editor, writer and creative consultant
