Antique diamonds are capturing hearts again with their soulful sparkle, historic charm and one-of-a-kind character
Antique diamonds are enjoying a pop culture moment. As soon as Taylor Swift unveiled her engagement ring, everyone was Googling Old Mine cut diamonds. The answer? One of the earliest versions of the brilliant cut, hand-shaped in the 18th and 19th century. But Swift was just reflecting a growing trend as more designers are rediscovering cuts like Old Mine and Portuguese and reimagining them with fresh, wearable elegance.
Many people are turning away from the overly polished and mass produced, and gravitating toward objects with intention and artistry. Antique-style cuts offer that emotional pull. Their facets are shaped by human hands, and every subtle irregularity captures a moment in history. These diamonds were created to glow in candlelight, which gives them a softer, more intimate brilliance that feels especially resonant today.
Their history is rich, their comeback is compelling and the creative ways they are being styled today make antique diamonds one of the most exciting movements in fine jewelry. The deeper you look, the more fascinating they become. Let’s dive in…
What’s old is new again: the rise of vintage diamond cuts
From the candlelit, softer sparkle of an Old Mine cut to the highly faceted brilliance of a Portuguese cut, these handcrafted diamonds are being reimagined for modern wear.
It’s part aesthetic, part attitude. Today’s shoppers are chasing character. They want history, individuality and diamonds that feel personal, not just perfectly polished. And with many vintage gemstones priced more accessibly than their modern counterparts, the appeal is both sentimental and smart1.
Why antique diamonds speak to today’s values
Antique is an umbrella term that covers all pre-1920 hand-cut diamonds2. These are gems that were shaped by hand using tools and techniques that are far removed from today’s laser precision systems. They feature time-honored cuts like the cushion-shaped Old Mine or the rounded sparkle of the Old European, with larger, less uniform facets, soft edges and higher crowns3.
They don’t just look different; they reflect a different mindset. In a world increasingly focused on sustainability, they offer something quietly powerful: beauty with a past, vintage gems made new again. Choosing an antique cut is a conscious nod to the circular economy, giving fresh life to a diamond that’s already lived.
Today, many designers are also reinterpreting antique cuts using newly recovered natural diamonds, blending old-world romance with modern sourcing and bespoke design4. With their soft glow, irregular charm and undeniable individuality, these diamonds speak to a new kind of luxury, one that’s thoughtful, expressive and deeply personal.
Modern vs antique diamond cutting: a tale of two philosophies
Modern cuts are all polish and precision; antique cuts are all charm and character. It’s not a rivalry; it’s a dialogue between contemporary sparkle and vintage gleam.
Fire vs brilliance
Antique diamonds prioritize fire (those romantic flashes of color) over all-out brilliance. Cut for candlelight, they glow with warmth and character, each one subtly unique.
Modern diamonds focus on brilliance, with precision-cut facets designed to reflect as much white light as possible. Their symmetry and sparkle speak to contemporary tastes, polished, bright and engineered for maximum impact5.
Handmade vs machine-perfect
Antique diamonds were handmade by skilled craftsmen, often guided more by intuition than exact measurements. The result? Gemstones full of subtle quirks and old-world charm.
Modern cuts, meanwhile, use advanced technology to achieve precise angles that deliver a clean, uniform sparkle6.
Individuality vs uniformity
Modern cuts are fashioned for contemporary styles. They are sharp and chic. Antique cuts are made with history in mind, celebrating warmth, vintage vibes and the beauty of imperfection7. Each suits a different kind of style.
Lately, though, there’s a shift. As fashion leans into individuality, more designers are turning to antique styles, not just for engagement rings, but for everyday pieces that feel timelessly elegant.
The return of Old Mine cut diamonds
The Old Mine cut is vintage romance in diamond form: softly squared, high-crowned and glowing with gentle warmth. Often mistaken for other antique cuts, it’s easy to spot once you know what to look for: a deep pavilion, open culet, and broad, hand-cut facets that give it a soft, unmistakable glow.
Popular from the Georgian to Edwardian eras, these diamonds weren’t made to dazzle under LEDs, but to reflect the flame of candlelight8.
Now they are making a comeback. The Old Mine cut has become a favorite among celebrity couples such as Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce, Tallulah Willis and Justin Acee, and Liam Hemsworth and Gabriella Brooks.
How it differs from other cuts
The Old Mine cut may echo modern shapes, but its charm lies in its quirks. Here’s how it stands apart from today’s favorites.
Old Mine vs Cushion Cut
Both are softly squared, but that’s where the similarities end. Cushion cuts are sleek and symmetrical. Old Mine cuts embrace irregularity: chunkier facets, a smaller table, that signature open culet and a softer glow that feels unmistakably vintage9.
Old Mine vs Round Brilliant
Round brilliants are sparkle-first, precision-cut for shine. Old Mines favor charm and a more relaxed kind of beauty10.
Old Mine vs Oval Cut
Ovals elongate with polished brilliance. Old Mines are compact and sculptural, with high crowns and a vintage presence that stands out11.
Each cut has its strengths, but if you’re drawn to individuality, history and a softer kind of shine, the Old Mine cut may just be for you.
The romance behind vintage diamond cuts
Antique diamonds offer a subtle shimmer that’s full of quirky vintage charm, perfect for couples seeking an old-school, romantic, one-of-a-kind piece that reflects their own story.
They’re often friendlier on the budget, too. Since vintage and antique-style diamonds don’t always play by the 4C rulebook12, they’re priced more on presence than precision, and that makes them all the more compelling.
How designers are giving antique diamonds a modern twist
From bespoke creations to capsule collections, modern jewelers are proving that vintage shapes still have plenty to say.
Artifex Fine: the modern heirloom-maker
Artifex Fine proves that heritage and modernity aren’t at odds; they’re magic together. Founder Kindred Lubeck brings antique diamonds into the present with quiet elegance and just the right amount of edge. After designing Taylor Swift’s Old Mine-cut engagement ring, she has recently followed up with a Sotheby’s capsule: a trio of antique gemstones, hand-engraved and heavy with meaning.
Why you’ll love it
If you’re drawn to jewelry that’s rich in texture and hand-finished detail, Artifex Fine will speak your language. When styling an antique diamond cut with intricate hand-engraved details, let the piece take center stage. Style it with minimal accents or wear it solo; it has more than enough personality to stand on its own.
Single Stone: redefining the classic
For LA-based duo Ari and Corina Madilian, vintage isn’t a trend; it’s a foundation. After years spent restoring antique pieces, they began crafting their own collection using repurposed diamonds, recycled metals and traditional techniques13. Each piece is unique, celebrating the character of antique cuts through a distinctly modern lens.
Why you’ll love it
If you’re into conscious design with serious sparkle, Single Stone delivers. Their signature look? Antique diamonds framed by bold accent prongs, a fresh, maximalist twist on vintage elegance.
Prounis: history class, but make it chic
Jean Prounis channels her love for ancient art into designs that feel deeply considered and refreshingly understated. Crafted in hand-wrought 22k gold and often set with antique diamonds, her pieces act as a quiet rebellion against high-shine convention14.
Why you’ll love it
If your style leans quiet but considered, Prounis might be your perfect match. These are jewels with depth, crafted in rich gold with antique cuts and a refined simplicity that feels modern. To get the look, try chunky bands, warm 22k gold and bezel-set diamonds for a finish that’s both bold and graceful.
The Portuguese cut: a forgotten diamond style making a comeback
With around 160 facets, the Portuguese cut is among the most intricate diamond styles ever crafted. A masterclass in light play.
Originating in 18th- or 19th-century Europe, it was designed to dazzle in dim light, making it a favorite among royalty15. Typically round or oval, it delivers depth, drama and an architectural kind of brilliance.
Once rare, this cut is making a comeback thanks to modern designers who value craftsmanship and diamonds with unmistakable presence.
How to style Portuguese cut diamonds
The Portuguese cut isn’t made to blend in. It shines in bold cocktail rings, vintage-inspired engagement settings (take a cue from Taylor Swift and add engraved details), or as a standout solitaire. With over 160 facets, it catches the light from every angle, making it impossible to overlook.
The past is present
In a world chasing meaning, antique diamond cuts bring more than sparkle; they bring soul. Each hand-cut facet tells a story, every ‘imperfection’ a mark of its maker, each glint a little wink from history. From the candlelit charm of Old Mines to the bold dazzle of Portuguese cuts, these diamonds aren’t just pretty; they’ve got bags of personality.
Today’s designers are taking inspiration from the past and remixing it into something refreshingly contemporary. With new settings, ethical sourcing and serious style, antique diamonds are having a modern moment.
If you’re into character over convention, this revival’s for you.
FAQs
What are antique cut diamonds?
Antique cut diamonds were crafted before the era of modern precision tools, shaped entirely by hand16. Their broad facets and softer glow give them a warm, romantic character, each one a little different, each with its own charm.
What is the difference between antique and vintage diamonds?
Antique diamonds are typically over 100 years old17, while vintage diamonds come from the mid-20th century or are inspired by styles from that era. Both carry a sense of history, just from different moments in time.
Sources
- www.naturaldiamonds.com/culture-and-style/vintage-diamond-cuts/ ↩︎
- www.gardensofthesun.com/5-reasons-to-love-antique-cut-diamonds/ ↩︎
- www.gatsbyjewellery.co.uk/vintage-diamond-cuts-explained-old-mine-old-euro-and-more/ ↩︎
- www.naturaldiamonds.com/culture-and-style/vintage-diamond-cuts/ ↩︎
- www.naturaldiamonds.com/culture-and-style/vintage-diamond-cuts ↩︎
- www.avadiamonds.net/what-is-an-old-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
- www.avadiamonds.net/what-is-an-old-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
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- www.avadiamonds.net/what-is-an-old-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
- www.alphajewelry.com/the-return-of-old-mine-cut-diamonds/ ↩︎
- www.alphajewelry.com/the-return-of-old-mine-cut-diamonds/ ↩︎
- www.naturaldiamonds.com/culture-and-style/vintage-diamond-cuts/ ↩︎
- www.singlestone.com/single-stone-style/antique-diamond-cuts/ ↩︎
- www.vogue.com/article/statement-jewelry-wedding-trend/ ↩︎
- https://stienhardt.com/education/the-portuguese-cut-a-forgotten-diamond-style-making-a-comeback/ ↩︎
- www.diamondrocks.co.uk/magazine/a-guide-to-vintage-antique-and-old-diamond-cuts/ ↩︎
- www.diamondrocks.co.uk/magazine/a-guide-to-vintage-antique-and-old-diamond-cuts/ ↩︎
