It’s impossible to talk about iconic diamonds without referencing Elizabeth Taylor. With a jewelry collection fit for royalty, few pieces caused more of a stir than the famed 68-carat diamond she purchased with her then-husband Richard Burton in 19691. Even more incredibly, the diamond, which soon came to be known as the ‘Taylor-Burton’ diamond, initially weighed a huge 241 carats when it was first discovered in a mine in South Africa in 19662.
Of course, the ring didn’t just dazzle, it set the gold standard for glamor. And with it, a narrative was born: bigger equals better. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the obsession with carat diamond size has endured – fueled in part by celebrity culture, red carpet close-ups and the seductive appeal of scale.
But here’s the thing: while diamond carats might make a big statement, it doesn’t guarantee brilliance.
Here, we explore why looking beyond carat count and digging deeper into the craftsmanship, cut and clarity of natural diamonds can really pay off.
What carat weight really tells you about a diamond
What does carat mean in diamonds? Technically, carat refers to the weight of a diamond, not its size, as often assumed; one carat equals 200 milligrams3.
But the shape and proportions of a diamond can influence how large or small it actually looks. For instance, an elongated marquise or oval cut will typically appear larger than a round cut of the same carat weight.
Additionally, a poorly cut one-carat diamond might look smaller and duller than a magnificently cut 0.8 carat diamond. Why? Because the smaller diamond will have undergone expert craftmanship that enables it to reflect light beautifully across every facet.
More diamond buying advice: prices jump dramatically at ‘magic’ carat thresholds. These are 0.50 carat, one carat and 1.5 carats. Meaning, a 0.95 carat diamond, for example, might look virtually identical to a one-carat gem but cost dramatically less.
Why carat weight often takes centre stage
“How many carats is it?” is often one of the first things people ask when discussing diamonds. And it’s no wonder – we’ve been conditioned to equate carat with value.
A one-carat diamond, for example, is often considered a ‘good’ diamond carat weight for an engagement ring. But make it 1.5 or two carats and suddenly, you’re in serious ‘wow’ territory. Peer pressure, celebrity culture and the gravitational pull of a round number often all feed into that ‘carat-centric’ mindset.
But carat weight doesn’t guarantee impact. In fact, two diamonds of the same weight can look completely different on the finger, with one sparkling ten times more than the other, thanks to a few – perhaps initially indiscernible – differences.
Why cut has a greatest impact on beauty and sparkle
Cut is the single most important factor in a diamond’s dazzle4. A well-cut diamond will cleverly bounce light with perfect precision, creating maximum brilliance, fire (those gorgeous rainbow flashes) and scintillation (the sparkle that seems to dance when your gemstone moves)5.
Even Hollywood gets it. When actress Amy Adams got engaged to her now-husband Darren Le Gallo, the pair didn’t go for over-the-top size. Instead, they chose a one-carat brilliant round diamond from Jean Dousset, a prestigious designer known for precision and craftsmanship (also the great-great-grandson of Louis Cartier)6. The reason? Because that specific cut delivers serious radiance.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) ranks brilliant round cuts from Excellent to Poor, based on how well a diamond interacts with light. But beyond the official grading, expert jewelers also look at proportion, depth and polish, fine-tuning the factors that turn a well-cut diamond into a truly dazzling one.
So yes, a 0.85 carat diamond with an Excellent cut can absolutely outshine a 1.1 carat with a Poor cut. It’s not simply about having more diamond to enjoy, it’s about making the most of the diamond you have – clever stuff.
How clarity shapes a diamond’s appearance
Along with cut, clarity is another major player when it comes to a diamond’s beauty and value. It refers to the presence (or, more accurately, the absence) of inclusions (internal marks) and blemishes (external flaws). At the very top of the clarity scale is Flawless, a rare grade given to diamonds with no imperfections under 10x magnification7.
Just ask Beyoncé. The 18-carat emerald-cut engagement ring designed by Lorraine Schwartz that was given to her by her now-husband Jay-Z, is jaw-droppingly large, yes. But it’s also technically graded Flawless in terms of clarity, making it one of the most pristine diamonds in the world8. Fitting for the singer of a song called Flawless, right?
But here’s the secret if you don’t have Jay-Z’s bank balance: most imperfections in diamonds are so small you can’t see them with the naked eye. That’s why many diamonds are considered ‘eye-clean,’ meaning their imperfections can’t be seen without a jeweler’s loupe (a magnifying tool).
Grades like VS1 (Very Slightly included 1) or VS2 (Very Slightly included 2)9 typically fall into this sweet spot, where a diamond looks perfect to the eye but typically costs much less than a Flawless one10.
In fact, minor inclusions are technically part of what makes a natural diamond unique. Diamond formation begins deep within the Earth over billions of years, as the diamond takes shape under intense heat and pressure. Each inclusion tells a small part of that diamond’s story, acting as a reminder that perfection isn’t always the end goal.
How polish and symmetry affect light performance
Polish refers to how smooth a diamond’s surface is after cutting. While that might not initially sound important, a well-polished diamond lets light enter and exit cleanly, maximizing a diamond’s brilliance.
Symmetry, on the other hand, measures how precisely a diamond’s facets are aligned. A diamond with poor symmetry can throw off the light path, creating dark spots or uneven sparkle (not desirable at all, in the diamond world).
While polish and symmetry don’t get as much airtime as cut or carat, they’re essential to the overall look and feel of a well-crafted diamond11.
Balancing carat, quality and budget when buying
Armed with the right strategy, you can absolutely find a diamond that delivers jaw-dropping twinkle without spending an eye-watering amount of money. In fact, you could potentially land yourself a steal if you really do your homework. Start with this diamond buying advice:
- Consider carat weights just under key thresholds, such as 0.90 carat instead of one carat. It’s a smart way of saving big, without sacrificing your diamond’s appearance.
- Prioritize cut quality. We’ve said it once and we’ll say it again: it’s the main determiner of a diamond’s brilliance and where you’ll see the biggest visual payoff.
- Consider ‘eye-clean’ clarity instead of Flawless. You might not have a ring to rival Beyoncé’s, but you’ll get the same visual impact at a much (much) lower price.
- Explore elongated shapes like ovals, emeralds or marquises to maximize ‘face up’ size with less carat weight.
- Work with a reputable jeweler who can guide you through the nuances and help balance all the 4Cs of diamonds (that’s cut, color, clarity and carat weight) when making your decision.
Now, you’ll likely appreciate why the smartest buyers don’t just ask about the weight of a diamond, but consider how it looks, feels and crucially, how it makes them feel.
Even Elizabeth Taylor, arguably the queen of carats, understood that a diamond’s true magic lies in its significance and story, not just its weight.
