Ever looked at a diamond and wondered what gives it that unmistakable gleam? While its cut determines how light dances through the stone, clarity plays an equally important role. It’s what allows that sparkle to shine through unobstructed.
‘Clarity’ one of the 4Cs of diamonds1 (cut, colour, clarity and carat), which help grade the quality of a natural diamond, determining its objective beauty and financial value.2 Diamond clarity technically refers to how ‘clean’ a diamond is — and whether it has flaws or blemishes — both internally and externally.
Think of a diamond’s flaws like birthmarks or quirks that developed as it formed deep underground, billions of years ago. Like a freckle on someone’s face, the appearance of these birthmarks makes each of them unique.
These naturally occurring features can subtly shift how light moves through a diamond’s surface and thus influence its sparkle. Typically, fewer flaws mean a more captivating sparkle (though its cut plays a big part too) and so diamonds with a higher clarity grade often sell for much higher prices.3
Diamond clarity ranks right at the top of every diamond buying guide because, obviously, how a diamond sparkles is what everybody notices first.
How the diamond clarity grading scale works
When a natural diamond arrives at a lab for grading, it’s evaluated under 10x magnification, which is the global standard set by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).4 This level of magnification is enough to spot even the tiniest of imperfections that you wouldn’t see with the naked eye. A grader will assess the number, size, type and position of inclusions and blemishes and use that information to determine the diamond’s clarity grade.4
In India, diamond clarity is graded by a host of local institutions as well, like IOD, GIA India, IGI India, SGL, and BIS Hallmark — you’ll come across these names frequently in the retail space. Keep in mind that while diamond clarity grading is determined by international standards, pricing and certification may vary across Indian retailers. Even if you’re purchasing your diamond from a trusted online platform, make sure you look at the diamond clarity reports.
The difference in clarity can result in significant price jumps, of course. For instance, a diamond with VVS clarity can cost 10-12% more than one with VS clarity, while not looking too dissimilar. This is why customers often prefer eye-clean diamonds that can appear to be as flawless as diamonds that are higher up on the diamond clarity scale.
The diamond clarity grading scale includes six main categories and 11 grades in total:4
Flawless diamonds
The crème de la crème of diamonds – you won’t spot any visible inclusions or blemishes, even under magnification. These literally flawless natural diamonds are impeccable by every standard (and rather costly, too!).
IF diamond clarity – internally flawless
This means there are no internal inclusions, but there could be a very small surface blemish. Still, a natural diamond with this grade is ultra-rare and covetable. These stunners make excellent heirloom pieces.
VVS diamond clarity – subtle flaws
Diamonds with this grading have inclusions so minuscule that they’re hard even for trained eyes to detect under 10x magnification.
If you’re considering an investment, VVS diamonds hold major potential. Their inclusions are so minute they’re barely perceptible, so you get a near-flawless appearance at a far lower price point than IF diamonds.
VS1–VS2 Diamond clarity – eye-clean
Here, a diamond might have minor inclusions that still prove tricky to spot under magnification. They’re often what you’d call ‘eye-clean’, meaning you can’t see any inclusions or blemishes with the naked eye, especially in smaller gems.
These diamonds are one of the most popular kinds, in terms of clarity, because they often end up looking as stunning as IF and FL diamonds, making them an excellent choice for flaunting on the daily or even bridal wear.
SI1– SI2 Diamond clarity – subtle imperfections
This grading means inclusions may be noticeable at 10x magnification, but hard to pick out unless you’re an expert.
I1, I2 & I3 Diamond clarity – naturally imperfect
Here, you’re likely to see imperfections without magnification, and you might notice a difference in brilliance or durability. But, depending on what you’re looking for, don’t write these diamonds off – they showcase real character.
Diamond clarity may help you gauge what kind of sparkle is ideal for you but remember: the presence of inclusions, in no way, affects the diamond’s greater emotional and spiritual significance. Irrespective of where the gemstone features on the diamond clarity scale, it still retains the power to transform into a one-of-a-kind symbol that proudly celebrates your life’s many milestones.
How important is clarity when buying a diamond?
OK, so we know that clarity can have a big impact on a diamond’s price3, especially at the top end of the scale, but what about appearance?
Unless you’re walking around with a jeweller’s loupe (like a mini magnifying glass used to look closely at gemstones), most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between a diamond graded VVS1 and VS1, for example. The answer to the question ‘how does clarity affect shine?’ is not straightforward and depends on many factors.
Additionally, the cut of a diamond affects brilliance far more dramatically than clarity does. In fact, a well-cut natural diamond with a lower clarity grade can actually outshine a poorly cut but technically flawless one. And let’s be honest, the idea of optimum sparkle at a reasonable value thrills us all. This is why plenty of jewellers will tell you that clarity influences price more than it influences sparkle.
While prioritising diamond clarity over the other 4Cs may make sense in some cases, remember that carat size and colour also influence how the diamond looks and sparkles.
The kind of jewellery you choose also affects how a diamond’s clarity appears to the eye. In India, where many traditional and contemporary designs use very small diamonds, clarity often has far less visual impact — tiny stones rarely reveal inclusions without magnification. In smaller pieces, like solitaire pendants or everyday studs, inclusions are similarly hard to spot. But in larger designs, such as chokers or statement bangles where the gemstones are bigger and more exposed, imperfections may be more noticeable.
The key takeaway? Diamond clarity is important and worth knowing about, but it’s not everything when it comes to shopping for diamonds.
How to know which diamond clarity is best for you?
While Flawless diamonds might make headlines, there’s no ‘perfect’ clarity grade. It all depends on your budget and your personal taste. However, there are some general rules-of-thumb that might help sway your decision, if you’re confused about which direction to go in.
Buying an engagement ring? For the sizes most commonly chosen (around 0.25 ct to 0.30 ct) even VS2 to VS1 clarity typically appears eye-clean as inclusions are far less visible in smaller gems. If you’re opting for slightly larger solitaires, VS1–SI1 can still offer excellent value without compromising on beauty. And for festive jewellery where diamonds tend to be tiny and closely set, VS–VVS grades create a uniform sparkle.
Are you a fan of round, oval or cushion cut diamonds? Well, that’s great news because inclusions are typically easier to hide in these shapes. You could go as low as SI1 or even SI2 without noticing if the cut and polish are top tier, in theory.
If you can’t stretch your budget too far, consider a well-cut SI1 in a secure prong setting – perhaps six metal prongs or ‘claws’ to secure the diamond, instead of four. A well-cut VS–SI diamond can still deliver exceptional sparkle and beauty, especially when regularly cleaned and well cared for. Especially in India’s humid climate, keeping your jewellery free of oil and dust build-up is key to maintaining its brilliance over time.
You could also land yourself a bigger diamond, or one with more covetable colour or cut, by opting for a slightly lower clarity grade (it’ll still seriously sparkle, promise).
When should you prioritise diamond clarity?
There are a few cases when clarity should move up your list of priorities, if your budget allows:
- If you are buying a large diamond, that’s two carats or greater. The bigger the gem, the easier it is to spot inclusions.5
- If you’re interested in step cuts (square or rectangular shapes) like emerald or Asscher. These cuts have large, open facets that make even small inclusions more visible. If you can, aim for VS1 or higher here, especially if you’re looking to have these be part of your bridal jewellery. Can’t have your wedding-day jewels fall short on their sparkle quotient, right?
- If you’re interested in investments or collector’s items that you hope will turn into beloved family heirlooms. If you’re buying a diamond primarily for its rarity or resale potential, clarity is key. Flawless or Internally Flawless gems are rare and often retain their value better over time.6
While knowing about the diamond clarity chart and keeping your eyes peeled for inclusions can be helpful as a starting point, try not to overthink things too much. After all, you can still rock a seriously head-turning piece of jewellery without it being technically ‘perfect’.
Sources
- De Beers London, The 4Cs ↩︎
- The Diamond Pro, A Guide To The Diamond Clarity Chart ↩︎
- GIA, VVS Diamond versus VS Diamond: What’s the Difference in Diamond Clarity? ↩︎
- GIA, Clarity is the key to quality ↩︎
- The Diamond Pro, Guide to SI1 Clarity Diamonds ↩︎
- Prince Scope, Flawless vs. Internally Flawless Diamonds: Understanding the Difference ↩︎
