Talking about iconic diamonds without referencing legendary Hollywood actress Elizabeth Taylor is impossible. With a jewellery collection fit for royalty, few pieces caused more of a stir than the famed 68-carat diamond she purchased with her then-husband Richard Burton in 19691. Even more incredibly, the diamond, which soon came to be known as the ‘Taylor-Burton’ diamond, initially weighed a huge 241 carats when it was first discovered in South Africa in 19662.
Of course, the ring didn’t just dazzle, it set the gold standard for glamour. And with it, a narrative was born: bigger equals better. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the obsession with carat size has endured – fuelled in part by celebrity culture (think massive engagement rings like those worn by Taylor Swift and Alia Bhatt), red carpet close-ups and the seductive appeal of scale.
But here’s the thing: while a diamond’s carat weight might make a big statement, it doesn’t guarantee brilliance.
Here, we explore why looking beyond just carat and digging deeper into the craftsmanship, cut and clarity of natural diamonds can really pay off.
What a diamond’s carat weight actually means
What does carat mean in diamonds? Technically, carat refers to the weight of a diamond, not its physical size, as often assumed; one carat equals 200 milligrams3.
But the shape and proportions of a diamond can influence how large or small it actually looks. For instance, in terms of diamond carat comparison size, an elongated marquise or oval cut will typically appear larger than a round cut of the same carat weight.
Additionally, a poorly cut one-carat diamond might look smaller and duller than a magnificently cut 0.8 carat diamond. Why? Because the smaller diamond will have undergone expert craftsmanship that enables it to reflect light beautifully across every facet.
Some more diamond buying guide pointers to bear in mind: prices jump dramatically at ‘magic’ carat thresholds. These are 0.50 carats, one carat, and 1.5 carats. Meaning, a 0.95 carat diamond, for example, might look virtually identical to a one-carat gem but cost less.
Why we often focus on size first
“How many carats is it?” is often one of the first things people ask when discussing diamonds. And it’s no wonder – we’ve been conditioned to equate carat with value.
A one-carat diamond, for example, is often considered a ‘good’ diamond carat weight for an engagement ring. But make it 1.5 or two carats and suddenly, you’re in serious ‘wow’ territory. Celebrity culture, the pull of social trends and the gravitational pull of a round number often all feed into that ‘carat-centric’ mindset.
But carat weight doesn’t guarantee impact. In fact, two diamonds of the same weight can look completely different on the finger, with one sparkling ten times more than the other, thanks to a few – perhaps initially indiscernible – differences.
Why a diamond’s cut determines brilliance more than size
Cut is the single most important factor in a diamond’s dazzle4. A well-cut diamond will cleverly bounce light with perfect precision, creating maximum brilliance, fire (those gorgeous rainbow flashes) and scintillation (the sparkle that seems to dance when your gemstone moves)5.
Brilliant round cuts are ranked from Excellent to Poor, based on how well a diamond interacts with light. But beyond the official grading, expert jewellers also look at proportion, depth and polish, fine-tuning the factors that turn a well-cut diamond into a truly dazzling one.
So yes, a 0.85 carat diamond with an Excellent cut can absolutely outshine a 1.1 carat with a Poor cut. It’s not simply about having more diamond to enjoy, it’s about making the most of the diamond you have – clever stuff.
How a diamond’s clarity defines purity and character
Along with cut, clarity is major player when it comes to a diamond’s beauty and value. It refers to the presence (or, more accurately, the absence) of inclusions (internal birthmarks) and blemishes (external markings). At the very top of the clarity scale is Flawless, a rare grade given to diamonds with no imperfections under 10x magnification6.
Many exceptional diamonds that have been part of global pop culture feature high clarity grades. The 18-carat emerald-cut engagement ring designed by Lorraine Schwartz that was given to Beyoncé by her now-husband Jay-Z, is jaw-droppingly large, yes. But it’s also technically graded Flawless in terms of clarity, making it one of the most pristine diamonds in the world7. Fitting for the singer of a song called Flawless, right?
But here’s the secret: most imperfections in diamonds are so small, you can’t see them with the naked eye. That’s why many diamonds are considered ‘eye-clean,’ meaning their imperfections can’t be seen without a jeweller’s loupe (a specialised magnifying tool).
Grades like VS1 (Very Slightly included 1) or VS2 (Very Slightly included 2)8 typically fall into this sweet spot, where a diamond looks perfect to the eye but typically costs much less than a Flawless one9.
In fact, minor inclusions are technically part of what makes a natural diamond unique. They’re formed deep within the Earth over billions of years, as the diamond takes shape under intense heat and pressure.
Each inclusion tells a small part of that diamond’s story, acting as a reminder that perfection isn’t always the end goal. In fact, each inclusion indicates a higher degree of individuality and rarity – qualities that you would like your heirloom diamonds to have.
The finishing touches: polish and symmetry
Polish refers to how smooth a diamond’s surface is after cutting. While that might not initially sound important, a well-polished diamond lets light enter and exit cleanly, maximising a diamond’s brilliance.
Symmetry, on the other hand, measures how precisely a diamond’s facets are aligned. A diamond with poor symmetry can throw off the light path, creating dark spots or uneven sparkle (not desirable at all, in the diamond world).
While polish and symmetry don’t get as much airtime as cut or diamond carat, they’re essential to the overall look and feel of a well-crafted diamond10.
How to balance size, sparkle, and spend
Armed with the right strategy, you can absolutely find a diamond that delivers jaw-dropping twinkle without spending an eye-watering amount of money. In fact, you could potentially land yourself a steal if you really do your homework. Start with this diamond buying advice:
Consider carat weights just under key thresholds, such as 0.90 carat instead of one carat. It’s a smart way of saving big, without sacrificing your diamond’s appearance.
Prioritise cut quality. We’ve said it once and we’ll say it again: it’s the main determiner of a diamond’s brilliance and where you’ll see the biggest visual payoff.
Consider ‘eye-clean’ clarity instead of Flawless. You might not have a ring to rival Beyoncé’s, but you’ll get the same visual impact at a much lower price.
Explore elongated shapes like ovals, emeralds or marquises to maximise ‘face up’ size with less carat weight. Remember: slightly smaller, higher quality stones can offer exceptional brilliance at more reasonable price points.
Work with a reputable jeweller who can guide you through the nuances and help balance all the 4Cs of diamonds (that’s cut, colour, clarity and diamond carat weight) when making your decision.
Always insist on certification, be it GIA, De Beers Institute of Diamonds (IOD) or other agencies of similar repute.
Now, you’ll likely appreciate why the smartest buyers don’t just ask about the weight of a diamond, but consider how it looks, feels, and most importantly, how it makes them feel when wearing the gem.
Even Elizabeth Taylor, arguably the queen of carats, understood that a diamond’s true magic lies in its significance and story, not just its weight.
Sources
- Wikipedia.org/Burton_Diamond ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/famous-diamonds-taylor-burton-diamond ↩︎
- Graff.com/international-en/guide-to-diamond-carat ↩︎
- Diamonds.pro/education/cuts ↩︎
- Gia.edu/diamond-cut/diamond-cut-basic-overview ↩︎
- Gia.edu/diamond-quality-factor ↩︎
- Ourosjewels.co.uk/products/emerald-diamond-ring-beyonce-edition ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu/en-us/diamond-clarity ↩︎
- Diamonds.pro/education/clarity ↩︎
- Beyond4cs.com/grading/polish-and-symmetry ↩︎
