Imagine this: you’ve just achieved the professional goal you set for yourself a year ago, and to celebrate, you’ve decided to gift yourself a diamond ring. It’s everything you imagined: a slim band and a brilliant stone with a sparkle that seems a little too good to be true. Even better, it came with a surprisingly affordable price tag.
But… pay close attention and you might rethink your choice. Why? Because it may not be a diamond at all.
At first glance, cubic zirconia and diamonds may look similar but upon closer inspection, you’ll discover how vastly different they are.
So, when faced with the cubic zirconia vs diamond question, how do you differentiate between the two? Here’s everything you need to know.
What is a natural diamond?
Every single natural diamond has had to endure a long, hard journey that spans millions of years. In fact, some natural diamonds are thought to be up to 3.5 billion years old, formed around the same time the first traces of life began on Earth.
Made of pure carbon (the ancient stardust kind!), natural diamonds are created under extreme heat and pressure deep in the Earth’s mantle. They have a unique crystal lattice structure, which makes them exceptionally strong.
In terms of hardness, they rank as a 10 on the Mohs scale – the highest level. Their long list of merits doesn’t end there though. Diamonds are also incredibly durable and resistant to scratches.
Be it an engagement ring that denotes eternal love and commitment or jewellery passed down as heirlooms, natural diamonds have an appeal so enduring, it simply cannot be matched by diamond alternative stones.
What is cubic zirconia?
Cubic zirconia vs diamonds — what really differentiates the two?
Cubic zirconia stones are lab-created simulants. In terms of sparkle, colour and even clarity, there are key differences between natural diamonds, lab-grown stones and diamond simulants like cubic zirconia. Unlike natural diamonds and their lab-grown counterparts, cubic zirconia is not carbon-based. It is composed, instead, of zirconium dioxide (ZrO2).
Wondering why these diamond alternatives look so similar to the real thing, even though they’re made of entirely different materials? It’s because both cubic zirconia and natural diamonds share a cubic crystal structure1, giving cubic zirconia their diamond-like appearance, but not their depth or durability.
Cubic zirconia was first developed for scientific and industrial purposes, such as optical and laboratory applications. Then, in the 1970s, Russian scientists perfected a method to grow large cubic zirconia crystals, making them suitable for jewellery for the first time. Soon enough, the material became one of the most popular diamond alternatives, making its way into the worlds of fashion jewellery, costume jewellery and even budget-conscious engagement rings.
But while cubic zirconia may possess the sparkle, it lacks the individuality and depth of a natural diamond, whose brilliance comes not just from light reflection, but from the unique interplay of cut, clarity and natural formation — qualities that make every diamond truly one-of-a-kind.
So, how to really navigate the tricky territory of cubic zirconia vs diamonds? Here are some differentiating factors to keep in mind while gauging if a jewel is a diamond alternative stone or the real deal.
Differences between natural diamonds and cubic zirconia
Appearance
Cubic zirconia and diamonds both have an unmistakable sparkle that’s bound to grab your attention, but there are subtle differences that are best identified with the help of a loupe, or the assistance of a trusted jeweller.
Natural diamonds may look colourless at first glance but most have subtle hints of warmth, from pale yellow to soft brown. It’s part of their natural character. Cubic zirconia, on the other hand, is completely clear, which can make it look almost too pristine and uniform. Under natural light, cubic zirconia often gives off a rainbow-like flash, while diamonds emit a more refined white brilliance.
What influences these visual differences between cubic zirconia and diamonds? Their differing refractive indexes. With a higher index of 2.42 (compared to cubic zirconia’s 2.15), natural diamonds reflect light with greater depth and contrast. Cubic zirconia, by comparison, can sometimes appear overly white or glassy.
If a gem looks too perfect, it’s worth a closer look. Unlike natural diamonds, which retain their clarity and lustre over generations, cubic zirconia tends to cloud and scratch over time — telltale signs your jeweller will spot right away.
Durability
The Mohs scale, developed in 1812 by German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs2, measures relative mineral hardness on a scale of 1 to 10. Natural diamonds rank an impressive 10 on it and cubic zirconia ranks ~8–8.5.1
This difference significantly influences durability and longevity. These diamond alternatives are much softer, and thus, far more prone to abrasions. They can scratch easily from everyday activities, and household dust could leave marks on them too. They even absorb oils from your skin, which means if you’ve been having a day out in the sun, your cubic zirconia stone could be absorbing a lot of that sweat and dirt.
If you’re looking for a gemstone that will last you far longer without the risk of it being impacted as much by scratches, chips and everyday wear, choosing a natural diamond is the wiser choice. The enduring gleam of natural diamonds also makes them ideal to pass down as heirloom jewellery that will bring joy to multiple generations after you.
Value & longevity
Cubic zirconia’s affordability and easy accessibility make it an appealing option for those comfortable with replacing their stones every few years. But from a lasting value perspective, choosing cubic zirconia over natural diamonds may not be the best call. Their replaceability not only reduces their financial worth but also limits the sentimental connection that deepens over time. And when it comes to resale, diamond alternatives like cubic zirconia hold little to no value.
Natural diamonds, on the other hand, come at a higher cost but carry a meaning that goes well beyond price.
A natural diamond is built to last, making it the ideal choice for jewellery meant to be treasured, worn and eventually passed down — pieces with stories, not expiration dates.
Symbolism
What would you like your gemstone to stand for?
Is it the emotional weight of a personal milestone like an engagement, an anniversary, a celebration of love? Or perhaps the cultural and spiritual resonance of an auspicious festival?
If your answer is yes, then only a natural diamond truly fits the occasion.
Cubic zirconia, by contrast, may offer surface sparkle, but it lacks the permanence, depth and heritage that define natural diamonds. Its easy availability and low cost make it a temporary substitute, not a treasure meant to last.
Why choose natural diamonds?
Natural diamonds make for the perfect storytellers, so if you want your gemstone to be a personal expression of your individuality, they’re perfect. Their durability and longevity allow them to double up as sparkly little legacy makers, so they’ll be around for far longer than you. One-of-a-kind and extremely rare, they have a timelessness, which carries forward beautifully across generations.
Where cubic zirconia fits in
Cubic zirconia stones have clear limitations. Still, their widespread availability and low cost have made them a convenient choice for fashion jewellery.
Affordability sits at the top of their appeal, making them an easy pick for short-term trends or experimental pieces. Their uniform sparkle lends itself to fast fashion — jewellery that’s meant to be worn for a season rather than a lifetime.
Ultimately, cubic zirconia isn’t a replacement for natural diamonds. It may imitate the look, but it can’t replicate the legacy, rarity or emotional weight of the real thing.
