The word ‘flawless’ is often used to describe something we find beautiful. But when it comes to diamonds, its meaning is a little more nuanced. Technically speaking, a flawless diamond is the top grade on the clarity grading system, in which a diamond is graded Flawless with a capital F!1
Most polished diamonds over 30 points (approx. 0.3 carat) will come with a grading report issued by an independent institute. This will state whether the gem is natural or lab-grown along with its grading based on the 4Cs: cut, colour, clarity and carat.
A diamond graded Flawless (or FL for short) has no visible inclusions or blemishes when examined under 10x magnification. Put simply, it’s sheer perfection.
What inclusions tell you about diamond clarity
Inclusions are tiny birthmarks that appear inside a diamond as it grows over billions of years, deep underground. In scientific terms, inclusions are small parts of uncrystallised carbon, microscopic cracks, or tiny mineral crystals that became trapped during the diamond formation process.
Inclusions are entirely natural, very common and don’t usually affect the beauty of a diamond unless they’re especially large or in an unflattering spot, like right under the ‘table’ (AKA the large, flat surface on the top of a cut diamond), which is where the eye typically lands first. In fact, a lot of the diamonds you might come across today (whether its bridal jewellery or everyday classics) are likely to have inclusions; the naked eye simply can’t see them.
Blemishes, on the other hand, happen after the diamond is formed, usually during the cutting and polishing process. They’re external and often so minimal they can only be seen under intense magnification.
While diamond clarity plays an important role in determining the value of the gemstone, it’s just one of the 4Cs of diamonds. So, keep in mind that it isn’t the only factor worth considering. For instance, a good cut can still make a slightly included diamond look exquisite.
When is a diamond considered flawless?
Since a flawless diamond earns its top-tier grading by having zero birthmarks or visible blemishes, it’s basically as perfect as a diamond can get. But, as we mentioned earlier, recovering a flawless natural diamond is very rare – many gemmologists will never see one in their lifetime.
Understanding Flawless and Internally Flawless clarity grading
When gemmologists grade diamonds, they’re looking at how ‘clean’ the gem is, both inside and out. The clarity scale or grading system has six categories, based on what can be seen under 10x magnification: Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS), Very Slightly Included (VS), Slightly Included (SI) and Included (I).
At the top of the scale are Flawless and Internally Flawless:
- Flawless (FL): diamonds with no inclusions or blemishes
- Internally Flawless (IF): diamonds with no inclusions, only minor surface blemishes
Natural diamonds with these two clarity grades are rare and extremely sought after. They’re often snapped up by collectors or jewellery buyers wanting to own a piece of geological perfection.
That said, diamonds with visible birthmarks or blemishes can be just as dazzling and special – arguably even more so thanks to their unique and distinguishable character. Case in point: diamonds with VVS and VS clarity grades. They’re excellent picks if you’re looking for diamond jewellery that impresses big on the sparkle front without stretching your budget too far.
What FL and IF mean in diamond clarity grades
Identifying a Flawless diamond (FL) from an Internally Flawless diamond (IF) is a tricky business. The only thing separating them is a surface blemish, such as a natural mark or a polishing line. While a tiny blemish doesn’t run deep or dim a diamond’s sparkle, it’s just enough to tip it into an IF grade rather than an FL. The margins are very small.
These diamond clarity grades are the gold standard of course but remember that often, eye-clean diamonds (like those graded VS) are impressive on many, many fronts too.
Why flawless natural diamonds are the clarity benchmark
Fewer than 1% of all natural diamonds are graded FL (Flawless) or IF (Internally Flawless).2 It’s this rarity and astounding beauty that makes them a covetable ideal in the diamond world.
The De Beers Millennium Star, a 203.04-carat pear-shaped diamond that took three years to cut, is one of the largest FL natural diamonds ever graded.3 Then there’s the Winston Legacy, a spectacular 101.73-carat natural diamond that sold for more than $26 million at auction. It turned heads not just for its size, but for outstanding colour and clarity, too.4
Flawless by nature, powerful in meaning
A flawless natural diamond is a real-life geological phenomenon, and in the world of fine jewellery and rare gemstones, it doesn’t get much better than this.
That said, it’s hard to ignore the distinct beauty that birthmarks or blemishes bring to natural diamonds. They ooze character and charm and hold a unique story with every mark. While scarce and widely covetable, flawlessness should not be confused with perfection, which is something that is truly within the eyes of the beholder.
