Whether you’re picking the engagement ring of your dreams or diamond studs to wear every day, Pinterest inspiration can only take you so far. To make an informed choice, it helps to know what truly matters when shopping for diamond jewellery.
There’s a lot to consider: setting, style, choice of metal and the gem at the heart of it all (natural diamonds remain the gold standard). Evaluating the 4Cs and certification is key, as is choosing the right metal to complement the diamond. Most of us want jewellery that’s beautiful, wearable, timeless and, importantly, within budget.
If your first question is, “what diamond size should I get?”, you’re not alone. It’s also a question that calls for some careful consideration, since it’s not necessarily straightforward. This is where the aspect of the diamond’s carat comes into the picture.
Why carat is often the first step when choosing diamond jewellery
Of all the diamond details to consider, carat weight often takes centre stage.
What “carat” means in diamonds
When we talk about carats, we’re referring to the weight of the diamond, not the size. It tends to be one of the first things that comes to mind when people start thinking seriously about a diamond. One carat amounts to about 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams, about the same weight as a paperclip.
You’ve probably heard benchmarks bounced around, like the idea that a one-carat diamond is the ‘standard’ size for engagement rings. And while that might be the right choice for some, it’s by no means a hard and fast rule.
Choosing the right diamond is about more than just carat weight – and even carat weight itself (and how it translates in real life) is more nuanced than most people realise.
What carat size looks like across different types of diamond jewellery
Let’s visualise. Loosely speaking, a 0.5 carat round cut diamond is about the size of a peppercorn; a one-carat sits closer to a small pea and by three carats, you’re looking at something about the size of a cranberry.
Take these comparisons with a generous pinch of salt, though. The actual look of a diamond isn’t just about carat weight. It’s also heavily influenced by its shape and cut, among other factors.
The appearance of diamond carat size across different pieces of jewellery may look hugely different. For instance, petite studs may have 0.50-1.00 tcw (total carat weight), while pendants may amount to 0.25-0.75ct and in rings meant for regular wear, the number might go up to 1.50ct. However, in all these cases, the diamonds may look quite different despite being in the same range.
Which diamond shapes look the largest?
Typically, elongated shapes like oval or emerald cuts tend to look larger because of their stretched surface area. If you want something that really shows off its size from the top view, opt for shallow cuts that have more surface area rather than the deeper ones, which tuck their weight below the surface.
The setting can also make a big difference across all types of jewellery. In rings, pendants or even bracelets, halo or cluster settings create the illusion of a larger central stone, while three-stone (‘trilogy’) designs add extra sparkle and presence.
Even the choice of metal matters. Thinner, delicate bands or chains make diamonds look bigger by contrast, whether you’re styling a solitaire pendant or a layered bracelet.
Diamond shapes that may look smaller
Diamond shapes with more depth like cushion or princess cuts can appear smaller from the top, as a lot of the diamond’s weight hides in its depth, where you often can’t easily see it once set in jewellery.
How do you find the best shape for you? If you can, visit a store in person to try different sizes, cuts and shapes and see which feels most ‘you’.
Is a higher carat diamond always better for jewellery?
Remember: size isn’t everything. If you’re budget conscious, you can still be savvy when it comes to diamond shopping.
As larger diamonds are increasingly rare1, a diamond’s price doesn’t simply increase with its weight in a linear fashion. Instead, prices climb exponentially once you pass certain weights. Doubling the size of your diamond typically costs up to three or four times more, rather than double2.
After a certain threshold, prices naturally jump – but you can use that to your advantage. For example, a 0.95-carat diamond often costs significantly less than a one-carat gem despite looking almost identical to the naked eye.
Figure out what matters most to you in terms of the aesthetic beauty of your diamond. If it’s a ring or a pendant that you’re considering investing in, the cut of the diamond would matter most. Meanwhile, the total carat weight might trump cut when it comes to tennis bracelets or diamond studs.
How cut can make diamond jewellery look larger and brighter
Of all the 4Cs of diamonds, it’s cut (not to be confused with shape) that has the biggest impact on how the gem interacts with light and how brilliant it ultimately looks. Most people don’t realise it can directly affect how big a diamond appears at first glance. A smaller, well-cut diamond can look brighter (and therefore larger) than a bigger, poorly cut one, which will appear dull by comparison.
The quality of a diamond’s cut — be it in terms of proportions, symmetry or polish — is pivotal to the overall sparkle of the jewel. Arguably the most important aspect of the 4Cs of diamonds when it comes to determining visual beauty, a cut can make a world of difference.
Choosing a diamond carat that feels right for you
When it comes to investing in natural diamond jewellery, it’s about choosing something that doesn’t just weigh or look right but feels right. You might decide to go for a slightly smaller carat weight in favour of better quality or to make room for something more meaningful, like a custom setting or a personal engraving, perhaps? Or maybe you want to go bigger because it simply fits the moment? Why not!
At the end of the day, it’s about finding something meaningful that resonates with who you are and how seamlessly it fits into your life.
