Priyanka Chopra Jonas’s wedding may have broken the internet, but her polki diamond jewellery made headlines of their own. A Bollywood bridal mainstay, polki diamonds have has graced some of the industry’s most-watched weddings — from Aditi Rao Hydari’s ethereal looks to Sonam Kapoor’s vintage jewels that once belonged to her mother. More recently, Radhika Merchant turned many heads with her dazzling polki diamond jewellery at the Ambani wedding festivities.
Intrinsically connected to India’s rich cultural heritage, polki diamonds are often referred to as uncut diamonds because they’re non-faceted unlike conventional diamonds whose sparkle is determined by how they’re faceted. Over centuries, polki diamonds have graced necklaces, rings and even daggers of maharajas of the past.
The surfaces of the diamonds are polished and are softly rounded to smooth out the edges. The result? One-of-a-kind natural diamonds that dazzle with a romantic old-world charm that’s hard to not love.
What is a polki diamond?
Be it as an essential part of wedding trousseaus of women belonging to Rajput royalty or as part of the Mughals’ ceremonial wear, polki diamonds have been associated with Indian history for centuries now. While back then, they were largely considered essentials for royals and the ultra-affluent, polki diamonds have re-emerged as highly coveted jewels for the modern bride.
What makes polki diamond jewellery so appealing? Rough yet romantic, bold and traditional all at once, they have an untamed brilliance that’s impossible to ignore. One of the world’s oldest forms of cut diamonds, they represent the absolute best of Indian artisanship in the realm of diamond-cutting. In fact, the cutting techniques existed far before western methods were even developed!
Often paired with gold and other precious gems, and presented in the form of big, bold necklaces and earrings that aren’t afraid to be the centre of attention, polki diamonds double up as proud motifs of Indian history and tradition.
Don’t confuse it with Kundan jewellery though. While at first glance they might look alike, they’re not quite the same. The difference lies in the craftsmanship — polki jewellery retains the raw brilliance of the natural diamonds while Kundan jewellery is centred on pairing the glint of gold with refined glass stones.
The history and legacy of polki diamond jewellery
Retaining the unhindered brilliance of polki diamonds includes perfecting precise hand-crafting techniques whose origins can be traced back to Rajasthani cities like Jaipur and Bikaner. Over centuries, Mughal artistry and Rajasthani craftsmanship have interwoven to create the polki aesthetic we recognise today: a harmonious blend of Persian influences and local traditions.
Jaipur continues to be a hub for polki diamond jewellery, with a host of luxury houses even offering patrons a reinvented take on the traditional diamonds. If you have a specific polki diamond necklace design or engagement ring in mind, seek out a jewellery house that specialises in the craft. Skilled artisans can bring your ideas to life with the nuance and finesse polki jewellery deserves.
How polki diamonds differ from other diamonds
Polki diamonds stand apart because they are natural, non-faceted stones, polished only to gently smooth their edges. Unlike faceted diamonds, which sparkle with sharp brilliance, polki diamonds have a softer glow that highlights the stone’s natural character.
What truly sets them apart is the artisanal craftsmanship: each piece is meticulously hand-set using traditional techniques. Every polki jewel is therefore unique, reflecting the skill of the artisan and the inherent individuality of the stone. And because polki are natural diamonds, not lab-grown, their rarity, provenance, and historic legacy add a depth of value and meaning that synthetic stones cannot replicate.
Popular polki diamond jewellery types
Polki diamond necklaces
Necklaces and chokers encrusted with polki diamonds add an instant air of regality, and if you dream of channelling your inner royal princess on your wedding day — they’re perfect. Want to go the extra mile? Pair your polki diamond choker with delicate pendants and dainty layered haars. The old-world glamour of polki diamond jewellery pairs perfectly with a host of other gemstones; mix and match to introduce a sense of play to your jewels.
Polki diamond earrings, rings and bracelets
For those new to polki, start small: polki diamond studs add a refined sparkle to any outfit. Pendants are also a good subtle option, while a slim polki diamond bracelet can sit elegantly alongside a favourite watch for effortless layering.
Brides, of course, have the world at their feet: bangles, glittering earrings, and layered polki diamond necklaces offer endless styling possibilities. You will feel like a queen.
Why polki diamond jewellery is the perfect match for Indian brides
There’s a distinct Indianness to polki diamond jewellery that shines through immediately. Far more than just opulent adornments, polki diamond pieces act as little time travel machines, transporting you to India’s storied past — to the ancient royal courts of Rajasthan and the Mughal era.
Polki diamond jewellery embodies a timelessness that perfectly encapsulates centuries of Indian cultural heritage and its rich traditions, making for ideal heirlooms. More and more modern brides want to flaunt that heritage-inspired luxury on their special day.
Creating polki diamond jewellery is a work of art in itself. Jewellers work with various techniques (each of which requires separate skills) like jadau, badroom and takkar. While jadau refers to the act of embedding, where polki diamonds are placed on a silver or gold foil, the badroon technique involves a setting where the diamonds are embedded into a tulle or jaali motif using gold.
When you choose to make polki diamonds a part of your life, you’re honouring our country’s centuries-old artistic legacies and traditions, and a craftsmanship that transcends the passage of time and trends.
How to style polki diamonds for modern occasions
Polki diamonds can effortlessly transition into modern wardrobes. The key is to balance their raw opulence with contemporary silhouettes. A slim gold and polki diamond ring can be layered with other rings, while a minimalistic pendant brings subtle sparkle to your daily wardrobe.
The gemstones’ natural brilliance also pairs beautifully with other precious gems — rubies, sapphires, or pearls — creating looks that are simultaneously heritage-rich and unmistakably modern. Understated yet luxurious, polki jewellery is designed to be cherished today and passed down as an heirloom for generations.
How to take care of polki diamond jewellery
The intricacy of the settings and the delicate craftsmanship mean you need to put in extra effort to take care of your polki diamond jewellery. Use a soft, dry cloth to clean, gently. Avoid exposure to moisture and direct heat when in storage. A dry cloth-lined box is ideal for preventing scratches and other damage. Avoid storing them with other ornaments.
Maintaining polki diamonds also translates to periodic inspection and upkeep. We suggest regular inspections of your beloved polki pieces and taking them along to trusted jewellers for professional polishing when needed, so they can be at their gleaming best.
In a market saturated with fleeting trends, polki diamonds remain a timeless choice. Their beauty lies in nuance rather than perfection. For anyone who values story over spectacle, polki is a natural choice.
