Spend long enough at a diamond jeweler and you’re likely to hear the word ‘clarity’ mentioned several times. Not quite following? Clarity is one of the 4Cs of diamonds1 (cut, color, clarity and carat), which help grade the quality of a natural diamond, determining its objective beauty and financial value2. It technically refers to how ‘clean’ a diamond is – and whether it has flaws or blemishes – both internally and externally.
Think of a diamond’s flaws like birthmarks or quirks that developed as it formed deep underground, billions of years ago. Like a freckle on someone’s face, the appearance of these so-called flaws makes them them.
When it comes to natural diamond formation, these naturally occurring features can subtly shift how light moves through a diamond’s surface and thus influence its sparkle. Typically, fewer flaws mean a more captivating the sparkle (though its cut plays a big part in a diamond’s potential to dazzle, too) and so diamonds with a higher clarity grade often sell for much higher prices3.
How important is clarity in a diamond?
We know that clarity can have a big impact on a diamond’s price4, especially at the top end of the scale, but what about appearance?
Unless you’re walking around with a jeweler’s loupe (like a mini magnifying glass used to look closely at gemstones) most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between a diamond graded VVS1 and VS1, for example.
Additionally, diamond cutting also affects brilliance far more dramatically than clarity does. In fact, a well-cut natural diamond with a lower clarity grade can outshine a poorly cut but technically flawless one. This is why plenty of jewelers will tell you that clarity influences price more than it influences sparkle.
The key takeaway? Diamond clarity is important and is definitely worth knowing about, but it’s not everything when it comes to shopping for diamonds.
Understanding the diamond clarity grading scale
When a natural diamond arrives at a lab for grading, it’s evaluated under 10x magnification, which is the global standard set by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)5. This level of magnification is enough to spot even the tiniest of imperfections that you wouldn’t see with the naked eye. A grader will assess the number, size, type and position of inclusions and blemishes and use that information to determine the diamond’s clarity grade6.
The GIA diamond clarity grading scale includes six main categories and 11 grades in total7:
FL – Flawless diamond clarity
The crème de la crème of diamonds – you won’t spot any visible inclusions or blemishes, even under magnification. These literally flawless natural diamonds are impeccable by every standard (and rather costly, too!).
IF – Internally Flawless diamond clarity
This means there are no internal inclusions, but there could be a very small surface blemish. Still, a natural diamond with this grade is ultra-rare and covetable.
VVS1 & VVS2 – Very, Very Slightly Included diamond clarity
Diamonds with this grading have inclusions so minuscule that they’re hard even for trained eyes to detect under 10x magnification.
VS1 & VS2 – Very Slightly Included diamond clarity
Here, a diamond might have minor inclusions that still prove tricky to spot under magnification. They’re often what you’d call ‘eye-clean’, meaning you can’t see any inclusions or blemishes with the naked eye, especially in smaller gems.
SI1 & SI2 – Slightly Included diamond clarity
This grading means inclusions may be noticeable at 10x magnification, but hard to pick out unless you’re an expert.
I1, I2 & I3 – Included diamond clarity
Here, you’re likely to see imperfections without magnification and you might notice a difference in brilliance or durability. But, depending on what you’re looking for, don’t write these diamonds off – they showcase real character.
How clarity grades are determined
In order to protect diamond consumers, a meticulous diamond grading process by a trained gemologist is crucial to help determine the quality and value of a diamond. The same is true when providing a natural diamond with a clarity grade.
The gemologist will follow several steps to conduct a thorough examination of the diamond to determine its clarity grade.
Examination conditions
Using a 10x loupe, the diamond will be assessed under standardized lighting and magnification conditions. Sometimes, for subtler inclusions, higher magnifications are required.
Inclusions and blemishes
The identification of both internal and external inclusions and characteristics to assess size, location, nature and visibility.
Plotting
Each inclusion and blemish identified is plotted on a diagram detailing the unique characteristics of each diamond.
Final grading
A final clarity grade is based on the notable inclusions in the diamond. The GIA Clarity Scale is the global standard for grading. Performed in a controlled environment to strict scientific standards to ensure objectivity, the GIA grading provides a widely recognised and reliable assessment of a diamond’s quality.
Diamond clarity factors
Gemologists consider a number of factors when evaluating a diamond’s clarity grade.
Size
The size of the inclusions identified during the assessment will impact the clarity grading. Generally the larger the inclusion, the lower the grading.
Position
The location of the inclusion within the diamond is important when it comes to clarity grading. Characteristics identified under the table are more visible, for instance, than those located in the girdle (around the outer edge) of the diamond.
Nature
This refers to the type of inclusion, whether it is a feather, cloud or distinct line within the diamond itself will influence its grading.
Relief
This indicates the visibility of an inclusion within a diamond and how much it contrasts with the diamond itself. An inclusion with a high contrast is referred to as a high-relief inclusion.
Visibility
Gemologists will consider how visible the inclusion is under 10x magnification when determining its clarity grade.
What clarity grade is best for you?
While Flawless diamonds might make headlines, there’s no ‘perfect’ clarity grade. It all depends on your budget and your personal taste. However, there are some general rules-of-thumb that might help sway your decision, if you’re confused about which direction to go in.
Buying an engagement ring? A clarity grading of VS2 or SI1 for diamonds under two carats is often ideal (it’s ‘eye-clean’ and excellent value). Likewise, if you’re a fan of a round, oval or cushion cut diamond, that’s great because inclusions are typically easier to hide in these shapes. You could go as low as SI1 or even SI2 without noticing if the cut and polish are top-tier, in theory.
If you can’t stretch your budget too far, consider a well-cut SI1 in a secure prong setting – perhaps six metal prongs or ‘claws’ to secure the diamond, instead of four. You could also land yourself a bigger diamond, or one with more covetable color or cut, by opting for a slightly lower clarity grade (it’ll still seriously sparkle, promise).
When should clarity take priority?
There are a few cases when clarity should move up your list of priorities, if your budget allows:
- If you are buying a larger diamond that’s two carats or greater: the bigger the gem, the easier it is to spot inclusions8, so it could be worth focusing on clarity in this scenario.
- If you’re interested in step cuts (square or rectangular shapes) like emerald or Asscher: these cuts have large, open facets that make even small inclusions more visible. If you can, aim for VS1 or higher here.
- If you’re interested in investments for your diamond jewelry collection: when buying a diamond primarily for its rarity or resale potential, clarity is key. Flawless or Internally Flawless gems are rare and often retain their value better over time9.
While knowing about the diamond clarity chart and to keep your eyes peeled for inclusions can be helpful as a starting point, try not to overthink things too much. After all, you can still rock a seriously head-turning piece of jewelry without it being technically ‘perfect’ (just ask Meghan Markle – her engagement ring’s center stone is rumored to be a VS2!).
FAQs
How does diamond clarity affect how color appears?
Depending on the final clarity grade, the color of the diamond can be significantly impacted. If there are relatively few inclusions, and the diamond has a high clarity grade it may appear colorless. Diamonds with a lower clarity grade can often have a diamond color with tints of yellow or brown.
Does clarity influence how well a diamond sparkles compared to cut quality?
The internal and external inclusions in a diamond are usually identified by a gemologist using a 10x loupe and are not visible to the naked eye. While the inclusions can impact the appearance of the diamond overall, other factors are crucial to influencing its sparkle, including diamond cut as it directly affects how the diamond reflects and retracts light.
Will inclusions affect how my diamond looks in photos?
The higher the clarity grade the less likely it is that the inclusions in your diamond will be visible in photography, especially as the majority of identified characteristics will not be visible to the naked eye. The appearance of the diamond can be impacted with lower clarity grade diamonds but it is important to consider other factors such as the angle the image was taken from and the lighting. Ask your jeweler for guidance on how your specific diamond can look its best in photography.
How can I tell if my diamond is natural and what does that mean for clarity?
Natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds are graded differently. While several organisations will grade real diamonds using the 4Cs: cut, color, carat and, of course, clarity, many, including the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), grade LGDs using a different system categorizing them as ‘Premium’ or ‘Standard’ or not at all if the quality is below par. The changes in the way diamonds are graded is in response to a growing demand for consumers to understand the difference between natural and synthetic diamonds.
Can clarity impact my choice of customized diamond jewelry?
The higher the clarity grade the greater the absence of internal inclusions and external blemishes, which significantly influences value, brilliance and sparkle of a natural diamond, and consequently the design and aesthetic appeal of diamond jewelry.
Sources
- Debeers.co.uk, The 4Cs of diamonds ↩︎
- Diamonds.pro, A guide to the diamond clarity chart ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu, What’s the difference in diamond clarity? ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu, What’s the difference in diamond clarity? ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu, Diamond clarity ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu, Diamond clarity ↩︎
- 4cs.gia.edu, Diamond clarity ↩︎
- Diamonds.pro, Guide to SI1 Clarity Diamonds ↩︎
- Pricescope.com, Flawless vs. Internally Flawless diamonds ↩︎
