With their cheaper price tag and supposed sustainability credentials, interest in laboratory-grown diamonds (also called lab-grown diamonds, lab-created diamonds, LGDs and synthetic diamonds) is on the rise.
But what exactly are LGDs? Are they really grown in labs and, more importantly, are they even diamonds? Let us take you through the key differentiators between LGDs and their natural counterparts, which include formation, rarity and sentimental value.
What are lab-grown diamonds and how are they made?
LGDs are diamonds that are mass-produced in factories. They have the same chemical and optical properties as natural diamonds, but they’re created in an artificial environment and have no natural history to speak of.
Generally, there are two different methods of producing LGDs. Here is the science part:
HPHT Production Method
One method of production is High-Pressure, High-Temperature (HPHT), which is popular in the US, China and Singapore. This process attempts to recreate the geological conditions required for natural diamonds to grow deep in the Earth, in a factory using powerful high-pressure presses.
The HPHT method involves combining synthetic diamond powder or graphite powder, a metallic solvent and a synthetic diamond seed in a capsule. The capsule is then subjected to extreme heat, ranging from 2,300-2,900°F, as well as intense pressure. This causes the solvent to dissolve the powder, freeing carbon that then builds onto the diamond seed in crystalized form.
Natural diamonds, on the other hand, take millions to billions of years to form under the Earth’s crust; their emergence to the surface is an incredibly rare occurrence. HTHP synthetic diamonds can be created on mass in a couple of weeks. As a result, lab-grown diamonds are often valued much lower than their natural counterparts, while the rarity of natural diamonds significantly increases their desirability, especially in engagement and wedding jewelry.
CVD Production Method
The second technique used to produce LGDs is Chemical Vapor Deposition (often shortened to CVD). As the name suggests, this process involves using chemical gases, such as methane, to produce crystals.
For CVD, a piece of synthetic diamond (often in a tab-like shape) is placed in a vacuum chamber. A gas containing hydrogen and carbon is then pumped into the chamber, which in turn is heated using microwave energy. This heat causes the gas to ionize, with carbon atoms separating from it and gathering on the synthetic diamond in layers. This process is repeated over the course of a few weeks to create large gems.
This ability to precisely control the chemical reactions through parameters such as temperature and pressure means CVD allows for precise layering and customization that enables the formation of high-purity crystalline materials.
What are the differences between lab-grown and natural diamonds?
In addition to lacking the same geological, mythical and sentimental resonance, LGDs also have scientific differences to natural diamond formation, though these aren’t obvious to the untrained eye. These include:
Formation time
Scientific research tells us that stardust from the galaxy accumulated in the core of the Earth when it was formed 4.5 billion years ago. Like something from a fairy-tale, this stardust was the source of carbon that, when bonded under intense heat and pressure hundreds of kilometers deep, crystalized and . The gemstones were then brought nearer to the planet’s surface by powerful volcanic eruptions millions of years ago and became lodged in pipe-like rocks.
The oldest diamonds that have been dated are around 3.5 billion years old, whereas LGDs are made over a period of days or weeks.
Growth structures
At a highly magnified level, gemologists can see the difference in crystal growth structures of LGDs compared with those of natural diamonds.
Natural diamonds typically grow in an octahedral shape (think two pyramids stuck together base-to-base), whereas the crystals in HPHT diamonds grow in a more cube-like shape and those of CVD diamonds are formed in tab-like layers.
Clarity characteristics
Because of their long and rather turbulent journey to the Earth’s surface, natural diamonds often have imperfections and internal features.
These unique features, which could be tiny pieces of mineral from the rock in which they grew, are individual birthmarks and make each natural diamond one-of-a-kind.
Due to their human-controlled production process, LGDs rarely have any unique characteristics – any that do occur are a manufacturing mistake. You might find leftover remnants of the raw materials used in the production method, perhaps.
In comparison, LGDs rarely have any unique characteristics, due to the factory-controlled production process used to create them. Any identifiable inclusions are more likely to be leftover remnants of the raw materials used in the production method.
Although seemingly identical in appearance to natural diamonds, LGDs have very subtle differences that can only be detected by trained gemologists, using specific equipment. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) can identify whether a diamond is natural or lab-grown using a series of methods and technologies. Once a diamond is identified as lab-grown, it will then be qualified as either “premium” or “standard” based on an overall assessment of diamond clarity, color, and cut, on a printed report, while a natural diamond is graded on each of the 4Cs of diamonds.
Are lab-grown diamonds really diamonds?
LGDs are considered diamond material, yes, but cannot be sold without their origin being disclosed. LGDs can’t be referred to or sold as ‘diamonds’ without the relevant prefix – laboratory-grown, laboratory-created, man-made or synthetic. Transparency is key.
Most polished diamonds over 30 points (approx. 0.3 carat) will come with a grading report issued by an independent institute. This will state whether the gem is natural or lab-grown along with its grading in terms of the 4Cs: cut, color, clarity and carat.
Given that most lab-grown diamonds occupy a narrow range of quality characteristics, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has introduced a more streamlined assessment method for grading them. They will either be classified as ‘Standard’ or ‘Premium’ depending on their quality and craftsmanship, rather than being graded based on the 4Cs of diamonds as natural diamonds are.
In the US, the leading certification bodies are the GIA, the American Gem Society (AGS) and De Beers Institute of Diamonds, but you may also see certificates issued by the International Gemological Institute (IGI), especially in the case of lab-grown diamonds.
Certification is vital, so consumers understand what they are buying. The value and rarity of a real diamond is significantly higher than that of a mass-produced lab-grown diamond. Certification is vital, so consumers understand what they are buying. The value and rarity of a real diamond is significantly higher than that of a mass-produced lab-grown diamond.
What are The Advantages of Natural Diamonds?
Rarity and preciousness
Lab-created diamonds can be made on demand in large batches, whereas natural diamonds are a truly rare thing.
The world has a finite reserve of natural diamonds because, first and foremost, their supply comes from nature, and second, because most are buried too deep for humans to recover, despite modern mining technology.
The world’s deepest diamond mine, Jwaneng in Botswana, reaches depths of up to 625 meters, however many diamond deposits sit between 140-200 kilometers underground. Unfortunately for diamond lovers, the volcanic eruptions that took place millions of years ago, surfacing the natural gemstones in existence today, won’t happen again in our lifetime.
Emotional and spiritual value
Natural diamonds aren’t just stunning, they’re legendary. For centuries, these glittering gemstones have been treasured not just for their rarity and beauty, but for the powerful stories they carry.
Across cultures and generations, natural diamonds have symbolized love that lasts a lifetime, unwavering strength, hope, and deep, eternal commitment. Some believe they even protect against evil or help to clear the mind, like a cosmic reset button.
Born billions of years ago in the heart of the Earth, natural diamonds are nature’s pièce de résistance, something that LGDs can’t ever replicate. This is reflected in their beauty, rarity, and value.
What’s the difference when it comes to sustainability?
Wondering how lab-grown and natural diamonds compare in terms of sustainability? Well, claims that lab-grown diamonds are more environmentally friendly or sustainable than natural diamonds aren’t always reliable.
Often, the factories and plants where lab-grown diamonds are manufactured, such as those found in India or China, rely on fossil fuels like coal to operate. In addition, other mined materials like iron, nickel and cobalt are required to make lab-grown diamonds.
In terms of social and environmental responsibility, it’s natural diamond mines that are leading the way. Natural diamond mining can bring huge economic growth to countries and communities, with mining sites creating direct employment and providing medical, housing and schooling services to local people.
In some cases, mining companies support or lead biodiversity projects that aim to protect nearby nature reserves and wildlife, too.
FAQs
Does the cut of a diamond affect its sparkle more than its carat?
Of all the 4Cs of diamonds, cut is the most crucial factor to determine the brilliance of a diamond regardless of its diamond carat weight. According to the GIA, even a flawless diamond can appear dull if the cut quality is poor.
Cut refers to a gem’s proportions, symmetry and polish; a well-cut diamond will interact beautifully with the light to optimize fire, brilliance and scintillation.
A meticulous cutting process by expert craftspeople that involves sawing, shaping, polishing, faceting, and stringent quality-control checks is adhered to for natural diamond cutting.
Many lab-grown diamonds are cut by modern precision machinery but will often be finessed by hand to ensure maximum brilliance.
What makes colored diamonds rare and valuable?
Color diamonds are rare and valuable because of their unique formation process. Only one colored diamond exists for every 10,000 white diamonds, which add to their inherent rarity and desirability.
The color of diamonds is often graded according to a universally accepted color scale set by certified grading institutes such as the GIA. Any colors that fall outside of the scale or that exhibit a color other than yellow, brown or gray is classed as a Fancy color diamond, which is even rarer and consequently more valuable and desirable to collectors.
How does diamond history and provenance affect its value?
Beyond the 4Cs of cut, color, carat and clarity, a diamond with an intriguing history, story or famous owner also adds to its rarity and desirability.
Diamonds with a narrative history are not only considered heritage diamonds but thanks to their provenance are considered authentic, ethically sourced and often historically significant.
Thought to trace back to 3200 BCE, the celebrated Koh-i-Noor is a 105.6-carat natural diamond that currently sits among the British Royal Crown Jewels. It is one of the most intriguing and treasured gems in diamond history, having passed through dynasties and empires over centuries.
The Cullinan diamond is likely one of the most famous royal diamonds of all time. Originating from South Africa, this beguiling blue-white gemstone is one of the largest rough diamonds ever discovered, weighing it at 3106 carats.
This kind of fascinating historical significance is something that sets natural diamonds apart from their lab-grown counterpart and reasserts real diamonds as a symbol of strength, power and individuality.
How do diamonds serve as meaningful gifts?
Natural diamonds have long been emotional symbols of unconditional love, genuine commitment and enduring affection, which makes them ideal as meaningful gifts.
Whether it’s the timeless elegance of wedding and engagement rings or the luxury, prestige and elegance of delicate diamond jewelry to honor life’s precious moments, every natural diamond arrives with a rich and storied history. It’s a legacy and narrative that is only enhanced by your love, loyalty, status, power, and individuality in the most meaningful way.
When considering diamond gift ideas, it is this depth of character, history, and natural rarity that elevates the emotional meaning and sentiment behind life’s special moments.
