There’s something instantly recognizable about an Asscher cut diamond. With its sharp geometry, cropped corners and mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect, it has a presence that feels both vintage and surprisingly modern. While round brilliant diamonds are designed to maximize sparkle, the Asscher cut takes a different approach, drawing the eye inward through layers of step-cut facets that create depth, symmetry and quiet drama.
Originally patented by the Asscher family in Amsterdam in 1902, the cut became a defining symbol of the Art Deco era. Its clean lines and architectural silhouette captured the spirit of the 1920s, and today it remains a favorite among those who appreciate distinctive design and old-world glamour1.
Whether you’re considering Asscher cut engagement rings or exploring different diamond shapes, the Asscher offers a unique blend of elegance, history and craftsmanship. In this guide, we’ll cover everything from its fascinating origins to the key factors that influence beauty and value, helping you decide whether this iconic cut is the right choice for your jewelry collection.
What is an Asscher-cut diamond?
Among the many diamond shapes (opens in a new window) and cuts available today, the Asscher stands out for its crisp geometry and vintage appeal. Technically, Asscher refers to both a cut and a shape. The GIA classifies it as a cut-cornered square step cut or octagonal cut2.
Unlike a princess cut, which is designed for maximum sparkle, an Asscher-cut diamond emphasizes symmetry, depth and clarity. It’s often compared to an emerald-shaped diamond, but its squarer silhouette creates a more balanced, architectural look.
The ideal Asscher-cut diamond has a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05, giving it the perfectly square appearance that defines this elegant and distinctive cut3.
Unique shape and faceting
If you’ve ever wondered what diamond cutting is (opens in a new window), it’s the process of shaping and faceting a diamond to showcase its beauty. In an Asscher cut, 57 to 58 step-cut facets are arranged in symmetrical layers, creating its signature “hall-of-mirrors” effect.
Its square shape and cropped corners are often compared to an emerald-shaped diamond, but the Asscher’s proportions create a more geometric, balanced look. Rather than delivering intense sparkle, the facets produce flashes of light, depth and luster that draw the eye inward.
As Olivia Landau, GIA-certified gemologist and founder of the largest digital natural diamond company in the US, The Clear Cut, notes, Asscher cut diamonds have a “deeply layered look that really draws your eye to the stone.”4
How it differs from other cuts
Understanding Asscher-cut natural diamonds and how they compare (opens in a new window) to princess- and emerald-cut diamonds can make it easier to narrow down the right shape for your engagement ring. While all three are popular choices, they differ significantly in shape, faceting, and the way they interact with light. Here’s how the Asscher compares to two of its closest counterparts.
Asscher cut vs princess cut
- Shape: Asscher cuts are square with cropped corners, while princess cuts have sharp, pointed corners.
- Faceting: Asscher cuts use step-cut facets, while princess cuts use brilliant-cut facets.
- Light performance: Princess cuts maximize sparkle and fire, while Asscher cuts create a hall-of-mirrors effect with flashes of light and depth.
- Style: Princess cuts have a contemporary feel, while Asscher cuts are closely associated with Art Deco design and vintage-inspired jewelry5.
Asscher cut vs emerald cut
- Shape: Asscher cuts are square with cropped corners, while emerald cuts are rectangular.
- Faceting: Both feature step-cut facets that emphasize clarity and symmetry.
- Light performance: Both create broad flashes of light, but the Asscher’s square shape produces a more concentrated hall-of-mirrors effect.
- Style: Emerald cuts offer a sleek, elongated look, while Asscher cuts feel more geometric and architectural, making them a natural fit for Art Deco-inspired settings6.
History of Asscher cut diamonds
Origin and early popularity
A key chapter in diamond history (opens in a new window) was the creation of the Asscher cut. In 1902, Joseph Asscher, of the renowned Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, created the world’s first patented diamond cut, designed to maximize the beauty of rough diamonds while introducing a bold new geometric style7.
From master cutters to global recognition
The Asscher family’s reputation grew further after they were entrusted with cutting two of history’s most famous diamonds: the 997-carat Excelsior Diamond and the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond. Decades later, Queen Elizabeth II wore the Cullinan III and IV brooch during an official visit to the Netherlands, where she met Louis Asscher8.
Louis was the only surviving Asscher brother who had been responsible for cutting the Cullinan Diamond. As he had become almost blind from this intricate work, the Queen removed her brooch to allow him to feel the diamonds.
The Art Deco era
By the 1920s, the Asscher cut had become synonymous with the Art Deco-movement. Its clean lines and architectural symmetry mirrored the era’s design aesthetic, making it a popular choice for rings, bracelets and brooches among royalty, aristocrats and society’s elite9.
A Hollywood icon
The Asscher cut has also played a starring role in one of Hollywood’s most famous love stories. When Richard Burton gifted Elizabeth Taylor the 33.19-carat Krupp Diamond in 1968, the extraordinary Asscher-cut diamond became one of the most recognizable engagement rings in the world10.
Modern Resurgence
Although its popularity waned during the mid-20th century, the cut experienced a revival with the launch of the Royal Asscher cut in 2001, a patented re-engineering of the original Asscher cut. More recently, high-profile celebrity proposals (opens in a new window), including engagement rings worn by Pippa Middleton and Nicky Hilton, have helped introduce a new generation to its distinctive vintage appeal.
For many couples considering why diamonds are used for engagement rings (opens in a new window), the Asscher offers a compelling answer: a diamond shape rich in history, craftsmanship and lasting emotional significance11.
Evaluating Asscher cut diamonds: the 4Cs
The 4Cs of diamonds (opens in a new window); cut, color, clarity and carat, are the foundation of diamond quality. For Asscher-cut diamonds, these characteristics are especially important, as the cut’s open facets showcase both a diamond’s strengths and imperfections.
Cut quality and its impact on sparkle
For an Asscher-cut diamond, cut quality is what determines how effectively the diamond interacts with light. When the proportions are well balanced and the facets are precisely aligned, light travels evenly through the diamond, creating the cut’s signature hall-of-mirrors effect.
For the strongest light performance, look for:
- Table percentage: 61% to 69%
- Depth percentage: 61% to 67%
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.00 to 1.05 for a balanced square shape
- Girdle: Very thin to slightly thick
- Symmetry: Excellent symmetry to create the distinctive windmill pattern12
While diamond carat (opens in a new window) affects size, it’s these quality factors that create the vibrant light reflections and depth that draw the eye to an Asscher-cut diamond.
Color grade for Asscher cuts
Diamond color (opens in a new window) is more visible in Asscher cuts than in brilliant cuts because of their large, open facets. Warmer tones tend to show more readily, making color grade an important consideration.
- D-F: Bright, icy-white appearance
- G-H: Excellent balance of color and value
- I-J: Best suited to yellow or rose gold settings, which can help mask warmth
The difference between these grades can be subtle, so the right choice often comes down to personal preference and setting style13.
Clarity considerations
Any diamond clarity guide (opens in a new window) will highlight the importance of clarity in Asscher cuts. Due to their open facets, inclusions are more visible than those in brilliant-cut diamonds.
- VVS1-VVS2: Exceptional clarity
- VS1-VS2: Typically, eye-clean and excellent value
- SI1 and below: Inclusions are more likely to be visible
We recommend choosing VS1 clarity or higher to ensure the diamond looks clean to the naked eye14.
ADIF tip: When evaluating an Asscher cut, pay particular attention to the center of the diamond, where inclusions are easiest to spot.
Carat vs dimensional appearance
When considering diamond size and value (opens in a new window), remember that Asscher cuts often appear smaller than round diamonds of the same carat weight. Their deep pavilion carries more weight below the surface, creating greater depth rather than a larger face-up appearance.
Because Asscher-cut diamonds are often more affordable than round diamonds, some buyers choose a slightly higher carat weight to achieve a larger visual presence while staying within budget15.
Pros and cons of Asscher cut diamonds
Like any diamond shape, the Asscher comes with its own strengths and considerations. With its geometric lines, vintage pedigree and unmistakable hall-of-mirrors effect, it offers a very different aesthetic from more conventional cuts. There are no real drawbacks, only characteristics that will appeal to some buyers more than others. Before adding one to your diamond jewelry collection, here are a few things to keep in mind, it’s worth considering both its strenghts and potential drawbacks.
Pros of Asscher cut diamonds
- Heirloom appeal: Art Deco-inspired styling that makes Asscher cut gems a natural fit for heirloom diamonds (opens in a new window)
- Distinctive beauty: The hall-of-mirrors effect creates exceptional depth, symmetry and broad flashes of light
- A rarer choice: Less common than round or princess cuts, giving them a more individual feel
- Everyday durability: Cropped corners are less prone to chipping than pointed diamond shapes
Cons of Asscher cut diamonds
- Clarity is key: Open facets make inclusions and color easier to see
- Smaller face-up appearance: The deep pavilion can make the diamond look smaller than its carat weight suggests
- Subtle sparkle: Prioritizes depth and clarity over the intense brilliance of round cuts
- More selective buying: Finding a high-quality Asscher can require a little more searching
The Asscher cut has always appealed to buyers with an eye for symmetry and craftsmanship, making many of these considerations a question of personal taste. Asscher-cut diamonds remain highly sought-after for their rarity, craftsmanship and distinctive character, qualities often associated with natural diamonds that hold their value (opens in a new window) over time.
Choosing the ideal Asscher-cut diamond
Balancing the 4Cs for your budget
Finding the right Asscher cut is about balancing quality, appearance and budget. Because the cut’s open facets reveal more color and inclusions, many buyers choose to prioritize cut quality and clarity before increasing carat weight.
- Cut: Prioritize excellent proportions and symmetry
- Clarity: VS1-VS2 grades are often a smart choice
- Color: G-H grades offer strong value
- Carat: Adjust size to suit your budget and preferences
If you’re wondering what size diamond is ideal for an engagement ring (opens in a new window), keep in mind that Asscher cuts typically face up smaller than round diamonds of the same carat. For bridal jewelry (opens in a new window), focusing on a balanced combination of cut, clarity and color often creates a more beautiful result than prioritizing size alone.
Settings that enhance Asscher-cut diamonds
Your setting choice can have a significant impact on how an Asscher cut looks and feels, influencing everything from perceived size to overall sparkle. If you’re working to an engagement ring budget (opens in a new window), the right setting can help maximize visual impact without necessarily increasing carat size.
Solitaire
Is there anything chicer than a minimalist setting that lets the diamond do all the talking? A solitaire puts the focus exactly where it should be, on the Asscher’s crisp symmetry, depth and “hall-of-mirrors” effect.
Halo
For those who want a little more presence, a halo can add sparkle and make the center diamond appear larger. Pippa Middleton’s engagement ring remains one of the most talked-about modern Asscher designs, pairing a three-carat center gem with an octagonal halo that perfectly echoes the cut’s geometry16.
Bezel or half-bezel
A sleek, contemporary option that offers extra protection. A full bezel creates a clean architectural look, while a half-bezel allows more light to enter the gem without losing the modern feel.
Three-stone
Side gems add scale and balance while highlighting the Asscher’s architectural lines. Nicky Hilton chose a design with trapezoid side diamonds for a refined, vintage-inspired look17.
Kite setting
For something less expected, try setting the Asscher on its point. This simple rotation transforms the diamond’s appearance, creating a bold, fashion-forward look that still feels elegant.
ADIF tip: Kite-set Asschers work best with highly symmetrical gems and balanced length-to-width ratios, to keep the shape looking clean and precise.
When choosing the right carat, cut, and style for different milestones (opens in a new window), the versatility of the Asscher really comes into its own. Whether you’re drawn to a solitaire for a classic engagement ring, a halo for added sparkle or a bold three-stone design to mark a special occasion, this distinctive cut adapts beautifully to every stage of your journey.
A cut with lasting character
The Asscher has never been an obvious choice, and that’s precisely what makes it so compelling. While other diamond shapes chase maximum sparkle, the Asscher captivates thanks to its symmetry, depth and a quiet confidence that feels just as relevant today as it did during the Art Deco-era.
Choosing an Asscher is often about appreciating the finer details. The right balance of cut, clarity, color and setting allows its beauty to shine, transforming it from a diamond into something far more personal. Whether set in an engagement ring, gifted to mark a milestone or chosen as a future heirloom, an Asscher carries a sense of individuality that feels both meaningful and enduring.
For those drawn to craftsmanship, elegance and diamonds with a story behind them, the Asscher remains one of the most distinctive choices in fine jewelry.
FAQs
How does clarity in lab-grown diamonds compare to natural diamonds?
Natural and lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) can both exhibit inclusions, but they are no longer graded in exactly the same way. The GIA recently introduced a simplified system for LGDs, using broader quality categories such as “Premium” and “Standard”xix.
For Asscher cuts, clarity remains especially important regardless of origin. The cut’s large, open facets make imperfections easier to see, which is why many buyers prioritize higher clarity grades when selecting an Asscher diamond. If you’re wondering, if diamonds change color over time (opens in a new window), both natural and LGDs retain their color under normal wear.
Are fancy colored diamonds a good investment?
Fancy color diamonds (opens in a new window) are valued differently from traditional colorless diamonds. Rather than being graded on the absence of color, they are prized for the intensity and rarity of hues such as pink, blue, green and yellow.
Some fancy-colored diamonds have achieved remarkable prices at auction due to their scarcity, making them attractive to collectors.
How can I tell if a diamond is natural?
The most reliable way to confirm if your gem is a real diamond (opens in a new window) and not one that has been mass-produced in a factory setting is through certification from a trusted grading laboratory such as the GIA.
Why have natural diamonds been the engagement choice for centuries?
Throughout the history of diamond engagement rings (opens in a new window) , natural diamonds have been prized for their rarity, durability, and beauty. These qualities have helped make them enduring symbols of love, commitment, and lasting connection.
Sources
- www.diamonds.pro/education/asscher-cut/ ↩︎
- www.taylorandhart.com/diamond-guidance/diamond-shapes/asscher/ ↩︎
- www.capediamonds.co.za/asscher-diamond-education/ ↩︎
- www.naturaldiamonds.com/engagement-rings/asscher-cut-ring-guide/ ↩︎
- www.jewelrytalk.com/diamonds/princess-vs-asscher-cut-diamonds/ ↩︎
- www.gemsociety.org/article/emerald-asscher-cut-diamonds/ ↩︎
- www.asscherdiamond.com/what-is-asscher-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
- www.asscherdiamond.com/what-is-asscher-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
- www.asscherdiamond.com/what-is-asscher-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
- www.caratdiamonds.com/blogs/engagement-rings/elizabeth-taylor-engagement-ring/ ↩︎
- www.asscherdiamond.com/what-is-asscher-cut-diamond/ ↩︎
- www.taylorandhart.com/diamond-guidance/diamond-shapes/asscher/ ↩︎
- www.caratdiamonds.com/blogs/education/asscher-cut-diamonds/ ↩︎
- www.taylorandhart.com/diamond-guidance/diamond-shapes/asscher/ ↩︎
- www.capediamonds.co.za/asscher-diamond-education/ ↩︎
- www.instyle.com/pippa-middleton-engagement-ring-/ ↩︎
- www.hola.com/us/fashion/2014091616781/nicky-hilton-flaunts-engagement-ring-see-the-photos/ ↩︎
