What Is a Mughal Cut Diamond? History & Value

Answer

Mughal cut diamonds belong to a historic cutting tradition associated with India during the Mughal era. Rather than following a standardized shape or facet pattern, cutters worked with the rough diamond’s natural form to create distinctive, irregular and asymmetrical forms. These diamonds are not only beautiful but carry centuries of story, artistry and symbolism.

Key takeaways

Mughal cut diamonds showcase India’s historic diamond-cutting traditions.

There is no standardized Mughal cut. The shapes are often irregular and asymmetrical.

Cutters work with the rough diamond’s natural form, using techniques such as cleaving and polishing on a wheel with abrasives including diamond powder.

Surviving examples offer a connection to Mughal-era craftsmanship and India’s diamond history.

When were Mughal cut diamonds popular?

Mughal cut diamonds were popular in India during the 17^th and 18^th centuries. During this time, the Mughal Empire was a bustling center of wealth, art and gem collecting. India was also the world’s principal source of diamonds.

Natural diamonds were symbols of wealth and power at the Mughal court. Emperors Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan amassed extraordinary collections of gems and jewelry. India’s diamond trade also attracted interest from Europe. French gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier documented India’s thriving diamond trade firsthand. He made six journeys to the region during the 17^th century.

Emperor Jahangir, the fourth Mughal Emperor, ruling between the years of 1605 and 1627.

What craftsmanship techniques were used to cut Mughal diamonds?

Using skill and patience, Indian artisans shaped Mughal diamonds by hand. Rough diamonds were cleaved before being polished on wheels coated with abrasives such as emery or diamond powder. The process created the irregular, shallow facets Mughal diamonds were known for. Cutters generally aimed to retain as much of the original diamond weight as possible.

This labor-intensive approach produced a variety of shapes, including near-rectangular, lozenge, uneven oval and pear. The irregularity of the diamonds tells a story of both the natural diamond’s form and the cutter’s skill.

Close-up of a Mughal-cut diamond — A close-up of a Mughal-cut diamond, showcasing the irregular, shallow facets that the era of diamond cutting was known for.

How do Mughal cut diamonds differ from modern cuts?

The standout feature of Mughal-cut diamonds is their lack of standardization. Every diamond has its own path with no prescribed outline or facet arrangement. Many historical examples are asymmetrical, with shallow facets and forms influenced by the original rough diamond.

By contrast, a modern round brilliant cut is carefully engineered. Proportions are calculated, and facets are designed to maximize the way light travels through the diamond. Mughal cuts offer a more subtle visual experience honoring the natural form of the diamond. Because many were cut from exceptionally clear Golconda diamonds, they are often described as having a transparent, almost liquid-like glow.

a diamond necklace — Bhagat Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace.
Image credit: *Christie’s Auction House*

a diamond ring with green gemstones — Bhagat Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace.
Image credit: *Christie’s Auction House*

How are Mughal diamonds valued?

There’s no standard price, and each Mughal cut diamond is assessed individually. Condition, provenance and the diamond’s individual characteristics are all taken into account. Historic examples with documented ownership and ties to important collections can also influence interest and value.

In 2019, Christie’s Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence sale achieved $109.3 million across almost 400 lots, making it the highest total for an auction of Indian art and Mughal objects at the time.

THE NIZAM OF HYDERABAD NECKLACE'AN ANTIQUE DIAMOND, EMERALD AND ENAMEL NECKLACE — The Nizam of Hyderabad Antique Diamonds, Emerald and Enamel Necklace.
Image credit: *Christie’s Auction House*

AN ANTIQUE DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BAZUBAND — The Nizam of Hyderabad Antique Diamonds, Emerald and Enamel Necklace.
Image credit: *Christie’s Auction House*

What are the most famous Mughal diamonds in existence?

Some of history’s most legendary natural diamonds (opens in a new window) are connected to Mughal India. The Great Mogul diamond was recorded by French gem merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier during his travels in India. It was once part of the Mughal treasury but its whereabouts today are unknown.

The 88.71-carat Shah Diamond offers a surviving link to the period. Its three Persian inscriptions record different owners, including the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan. Today, it’s displayed in the Moscow’s Diamond Fund of Russia.

The Hope Diamond’s story also begins in Mughal-era India. Tavernier acquired a 112-carat blue diamond there and sold it to King Louis XIV, whose court jeweler recut it into the 67-carat French Blue. After the French Blue was stolen in 1792, a recut blue diamond surfaced in London. Researchers have concluded it is the 45.52-carat Hope Diamond (opens in a new window) we know today.